wrench2watt
Member since May 2026
Ran a BMW service shop for 12 years. Pivoted to EV and hybrid repair 18 months ago. Learning fast, still turning wrenches.
Recent replies
That $45 thermocouple reader is going on my recommended parts list for customers. I've been suggesting the $25 4-channel version and it does the same job. The number of DIY builds that come into my shop with no pack temperature instrumentation at all is genuinely surprising. It's a $30–45 spend that changes your diagnostic capability completely.
From a shop perspective this is accurate and the failure pattern is more specific than people realize. Thermal neglect is invisible until it isn't, and by then the customer describes it as "the battery just stopped working" — no warning, no obvious cause. I've had three DIY traction builds come in over the past 18 months with thermal damage. Two were stationary packs repurposed into vehicle applications where the builder kept the same passive management setup they used for a static install. The third was a purpose-built conversion where the builder skipped instrumentation entirely and had no idea how hot the pack was running. The pattern across all three: car works fine for the first season, then performance drops noticeably — range, acceleration, BMS faults under hard use. When I pull the logs, the pack has been cycling at 44–52°C for most of its life. Capacity loss is already measurable. By the time it's in my shop, the damage is done and the conversation is about whether replacement or repair makes more sense. The one change I now recommend to every builder before they close up the enclosure: put a thermocouple at the hottest cell group and run the wire to a visible gauge — not a phone app, a gauge. If the driver can't see pack temperature while driving, they can't protect it. I've started stocking a four-channel digital thermocouple reader as a standard recommendation alongside BMS and fusing. Thirty-five dollars and it tells you everything.
MOSFET-failing-shorted is a failure mode I've seen come through the shop twice. After the second time I stopped recommending MOSFET-based units for any vehicle application above 48V at real traction currents — once it fails closed, you have no disconnect, full stop.